A handout photo of the 2010 Toyota RAV4. CREDIT: TOYOTA
Question: I have a 2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The automatic system works but the driver’s side temperature is fairly warm while the passenger side temperature is cool. I have tried adjusting the temperature settings for both sides but it doesn’t seem to help. The air will change from floor to vent to defrost but the temperature is the problem. This wasn’t a problem until the outside temperatures got hot. Do you have any ideas what could be wrong?
Answer: Your climate-control system in your Rav4 is a dual-zone system, popular in many newer vehicles. There are several doors inside the heater/air-conditioning system that are moved back and forth to direct airflow and adjust the temperature. On some vehicles these are moved by vacuum actuators, but many vehicles, including your Rav4, use small electric motors to move the doors. The motors are mounted on the outside of the ductwork beneath the dash. When you adjust the temperature, the electronic module, which is part of the controls on the dash, sends an electrical signal to move the electric motors and move the air doors.
From your description, it appears the motors that move the doors to control the direction of airflow are working, but not the system that controls the temperature. There are two motors and doors that control temperature. They change the temperature by blending the air through the hot heater core and the cold air conditioning evaporator inside the housing. When you select full cold, all the air goes through the air conditioning. When you select full hot, all the air goes through the heater core. In-between temperatures are a mix of the two air flows. The passenger side temperature motor and door are working but the driver’s side isn’t.
You can see the driver’s side motor beneath the dash on the left side of the console. The motor should move when you adjust the temperature up and down. If the motor doesn’t move, it is likely the motor has failed and it is fairly easy to replace as it is simply screwed to the side of the housing. If the motor is moving but the temperature doesn’t change, then the door inside the housing is damaged and the ductwork will have to be disassembled to repair the door assembly. This can take several hours, especially if you haven’t done it before.
Most of the time, the problem is with the electric motor, but I have seen doors fail, especially if items have fallen down the defroster ducting and jammed the door.
Question: I own a 2000 Chevrolet 3500 diesel, dually 4x4. I’m having problems with my power door locks. They work with the remote; however, when I try to lock or unlock them with the door lock switches they won’t lock or unlock. I have checked the fuses and they are good. Could you please advise me what to do?
Answer: Power door lock controls have changed greatly in the last few years. The lock switches used to be connected to a relay that sent power to the motors that operated the door locks. Now many vehicles use body computers and some even have door modules that are used to control the door locks. Your truck door locks are controlled by a body computer.
When you press a button on the keyless entry, the receiver sends a signal to the body control module. The module then operates the door lock and unlock relays located in the fuse block. Because the door locks do work with the keyless entry, we know all these components are working correctly.
The door lock switches send a voltage signal to the body control module so the module can control the door locks.
Because both switches don’t work, the problem can be traced to a broken power wire or bad fuse that feeds both switches. Check the mirror/lock three-amp fuse in the fuse block for power on both sides.
If the fuse is open, then replace it. If there is power on both sides of the fuse, check for power on the orange wire at the switches.
If there is no power at the switches, the orange wire is broken. I would then check wiring connections at the fuse block first.